Clouds Mountain Gorilla Lodge – Bwindi Gorilla Park, Uganda

It is quite remote. Charter Flights from Entebbe or Kajjansi to Kisoro, with a road transfer from the airstrip in Kisoro to the lodge.Travel from Kampala, crossing the Equator, through Mbarara to Kabale. Kampala – Mbarara = 280km plus Mbarara – Kabale = 147km. If you fly to the park, you are picked up at the dirt airstrip at Kisoro The airstrip crosses the main road (such as it is) into Kisoro – they close boom gates across the road so that a plane can land. The drive to the lodge is only about 35 km but up very rough winding roads, and takes about one and three quarter hours. However the drive is part of the experience. You drive through beautiful lush green country which includes a lake surrounded by hills, past beaming waving children and past women in amazing bright coloured dresses carrying babies on their backs and heavy loads on their heads. The women seem to do most of the work, and till fields for long hours. The kids cry out “mizungu! (white person) How are you?” and occasionally in a way that is charming and not offensive “give me money” or waterbottles

The lodge is on top of a ridge at about 2300 metres (7500 feet) in altitude. The views are stunning, over the green rolling hills of the Western Rift Valley to the Virumga Volcanoes (which sit on the junction of Uganda, Rwanda and the Congo). You often wake to the sound of drums calling people to church 

The main lodge is roomy and very comfortable without being OTT (over the top). It is built out of the local volcanic stone with polished concrete floors. There are groups of armchairs and sofas to sink into after a walk or for a drink in the evening, and a few fireplaces. The walls are decorated with paintings commissioned from Ugandan artists. 

The food is extremely good and beautifully presented- amazing considering the remoteness. They sometime have growing vegetables and greens in the lodge’s garden, which they are very pleased to show you.

The staff are all attentive, friendly and enthusiastic. Each family or couple has a butler (head servant) to look after them. In many places that is a gimmick, and you are introduced to a butler whom you barely see again. At the lodge it is designed so that the butler gets to know you and your wants. He brings you your wake-up tea or coffee, helps serve you meals and drinks, and at night takes glowing charcoal out of your fireplace and puts them in terra-cotta braziers to warm up your room. It is a long day but they get days off after their guest leaves.